Shein Defends Its Role in French Fashion Industry Amid Senate Scrutiny

At a hearing before the French Senate's economic affairs committee, Shein and its retail partner BHV defended their collaboration amidst growing criticism from senators and industry groups. Quentin Ruffat, Shein's spokesperson, argued that the fast-fashion platform can support struggling French clothing brands by leveraging its digital presence. Since early November, BHV has attracted about 5,000 daily visitors due to the partnership, yet sales remain low and some brands have withdrawn citing unpaid debts or opposition to Shein's involvement.

Senators, including ecologist Yannick Jadot, expressed skepticism, warning that Shein's presence could damage the European textile industry. Meanwhile, legal challenges include accusations of unfair competition from trade federations and government actions over prohibited products sold on Shein's platform. Ruffat countered that only 10% of French fashion brands’ revenue comes from online sales, highlighting the need for a multichannel approach.

Shein also claimed environmental responsibility, noting a significantly lower rate of unsold inventory compared to traditional models, despite environmental groups criticizing its promotion of overconsumption and high carbon emissions exceeding those of Zara and H&M. Addressing forced labor allegations linked to Uyghur minorities in China, Ruffat stated that 95% of suppliers were audited last year, resulting in contract terminations for 12 non-compliant suppliers.

BHV owner Frédéric Merlin noted the challenge of aligning expensive brands with Shein's customers but did not specify plans for expanding the partnership outside Paris. The debate highlights tensions over Shein's disruptive role amid calls for protecting the French fashion sector.